Embedded at Chopes Day 3

With there being a lay day on the books today, I managed to sneak away from the media tent and walk down the point to make the thousand-yard paddle out to Chopes. Who needs a boat, right? Well, 20 minutes into the paddle and I’m reaching the lineup. What looked to be fun, playful 3-foot Teahupoo was in actuality solid, 5-feet South Pacific power detonating on the razor blades they call “reef” over here.

Forget what you think you’ve seen from the webcast and what you say in front of your friends about surfing Teahupoo: that plays is f—king nuts at any size. Yes, at 5 or 6 feet it’s manageable, but one small mistake and you’re standing on the reef in six inches of water while a 6-footer explodes in your face. Thankfully, I shoulder-hopped a few and didn’t take any beatings…I also didn’t get any bombs as I left that to the likes of Andy, Occy, Parko, and Jordy Smith. It was an experience unlike anything I’ve ever seen watching the greats play with the wave. Everyone seemed on fire, but there was no one in the water that could match Andy. As I paddled out to the lineup, a 5-footer swung wide as Andy dropped in, leagues behind the peak. As the wave went square, Andy pulled in using his trademark Lance Burkhart backside stall. (Eat your heart out Rick Kane.) He was shacked all the way from the point to the inside. You can’t mention Chopes without Andy and you can’t mention Andy without Chopes. After watching him tame the beast, I now know why. —Jeff Mull