By Mike Latronic Photos Brent Bielmann – As a journalist, publisher and surf enthusiast for most of my adult life, I have also been shooting and editing video and images for nearly 30 years. I suppose I could describe myself as a surf historian as well. Last summer I was going through some unlogged mini dv tape shot at 1-2 foot Vals Reef and I came across a clip logged as “groms crashing”, or something like that. Curious, I opened it up and the “groms” were none other than Billy Kemper and John John Florence. They were about 8 or 9 years old.
Fast forward 25 years or so and Kemper and Florence are still sparring partners and while Florence has mastered many accolades in all surfing conditions, Kemper has undeniably made his mark purely in waves of consequence.
Billy Kemper is a name synonymous with the raw power and competitive spirit of big wave surfing. Born and raised in Hawaiʻi, Billy’s connection to the ocean runs deep, beginning at a tender age with his family and quickly growing into a passion pursuit that would define his life. Throughout his career, he has established himself not only as one of the world’s premier big wave surfers but as a figure who embodies resilience, focus, and the undying will to push the limits of the sport. He is particularly known for his commanding performances at some of the world’s most challenging breaks, including Jaws, Pipeline, and Sunset Beach, where he has been able to harness both the physical and mental fortitude required to conquer the biggest waves on earth.
Kemper’s journey to the top of the surfing world has been marked by a series of personal and professional challenges that would have derailed lesser athletes. From losing his brother at a young age to overcoming near-career-ending injuries, Billy has proven time and time again that the true measure of a champion lies in the ability to rise from adversity, both in the water and in life.
Billy’s story is not just about athleticism, but about how he has navigated life’s most difficult moments with an unyielding determination. His ability to balance the thrill of competitive surfing with the deeper, more personal connections to his family and community is what makes his journey unique. Billy remains humble, acknowledging his roots and the mentors who shaped his life, all while setting a powerful example for the next generation of surfers.
Now, as a family man his journey exemplifies what it means to be not only a champion in the water but a true champion in life.FSM
ML: Billy, tell me about the first time you ever remember riding a wave.
Billy Kemper: Ah, I was probably around three or four years old, but the memory that stands out the most is being on my brother Eric’s surfboard. I don’t remember much from that young, but I do remember looking up at Ho’okipa, and I remember wanting to be out there with my brother, Eric. He was the one I looked up to, and I just wanted to surf with him. I was in awe of him and his friends like Kaimana Henry and Ty Van Dyke—those guys were all like my big brothers too. That early bond with my brother Eric was the foundation of my love for surfing.
ML: You mentioned Eric, and he seemed to have a significant impact on you. Can you tell us more about that?
Billy Kemper: Yeah, Eric was a huge influence on me. He was 10 years older than me, and he was like a superhero in my eyes. I always saw him as someone who just had this energy that others gravitated towards. He was a superstar even from a young age, and I admired everything about him. He won national titles, and I was always in awe of how successful he was. We were really close, and I remember moving to the North Shore (of ʻOahu) to help him out before he passed away. It was a tough time, but I think it shaped me in ways that I didn’t fully understand at the time. I grew up with a lot of adversity, but Eric’s memory and my connection to him have kept me going.
ML: I can imagine that was incredibly hard. How did it affect you personally and professionally?
Billy Kemper: Losing Eric was a game-changer in my life. I was only eight years old, and before that, my parents had gotten divorced, and I had lost my step-sister. It was a lot to handle for a young kid. But through it all, I had a lot of love and support from my mom, my family, and the community here. My mom was an incredible support, and my older brother Carl really stepped up for me as well. Even through all the challenges, I’m grateful for what I learned from those tough times. Those experiences pushed me to dig deep and persevere, and in many ways, they are the foundation of my success as a pro surfer.
ML: You’ve overcome quite a bit in your career, including some life-threatening injuries. What drives you to keep going even after such adversity?
Billy Kemper: I think it comes down to surviving. Growing up, I went through a lot of hardship—losing my brother, my step-sister, and watching my mom battle cancer. When I look back on it, the injuries I’ve faced in my career, like the one in Morocco, seem like a walk in the park. My mom fought for her life. That perspective has really shaped my mindset. Coming back from my injury in Morocco, where I blew out my knee and pelvis, was probably the hardest thing I’ve ever done. But I kept my head down, focused, and just wanted to get back to surfing Jaws the way I love to surf it. It wasn’t about winning—it was about being able to do what I love again.
ML: Jaws has been a huge part of your career. What is it about that place that makes it so special for you?
Billy Kemper: Jaws is everything. It’s not just a wave: it’s a part of who I am. It’s like the Colosseum. It’s a place where history is made, and it’s full of power and energy. I’ve got my brother’s ashes and my mom’s ashes out there, so every time I’m out there, it’s more than just surfing. It’s personal. I’ve watched the pioneers of big wave surfing—guys like Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama, do incredible things out there, and they were like superheroes to me. So every time I surf Jaws, I feel connected to that history and to my family.
ML: And how about the Pipeline?
Billy Kemper: Pipeline is the best wave in the world, no doubt, but it’s also one of the most dangerous. Over the years, I’ve seen a shift in the respect and understanding of the lineup, especially with all the new faces coming in. It’s not about just getting in the water and riding the wave, it’s about earning your place in the lineup. It’s something that I think is getting lost nowadays. When I was growing up, there was a pecking order. It was about respect. I think it’s important for everyone to understand where they belong and to spend time at different spots before they take on the big wave at Pipeline. It’s a matter of knowing what you’re capable of and respecting the wave and the people who have put in the time before you.
ML: You’ve spoken before about the feeling of being in the barrel. What’s so special about that moment for you?
Billy Kemper: The barrel is like nothing else. It’s the one place where time stands still. For me, it’s where everything else fades away, and I’m just in this vortex of energy. I think every athlete has that place where they get into the flow state, whether it’s hitting a home run, knocking someone out in the cage, or surfing a wave. For surfers, it’s that moment when you’re in the barrel. It’s a unique feeling that’s hard to explain unless you’ve experienced it, but it’s a powerful place to be.
ML: You’ve been through so much, but now you’re in a much better place with your family. What does your life look like now?
Billy Kemper: Honestly, it’s a dream come true. I’ve got four amazing kids, a beautiful wife who runs her own business, and we’re raising them here on the North Shore. It’s everything I could have wanted. Life’s been good to me, and I’m just grateful for what I have now. I don’t take anything for granted, and I try to live every day like I’m still that kid who dreamed of surfing Sunset and Pipeline. Even now, I’m still working hard, still dreaming, and still living that dream.
ML: Finally, what’s your message to the next generation of surfers coming up?
Billy Kemper: I’d say, don’t rush it. Put in the time, and earn your place. Surfing isn’t just about what you can do on the board. It’s about respect, community, and patience. Take the time to learn, to grow, and to understand the waves you’re riding. If you put in the work and stay true to yourself, everything else will fall into place.