The lines of 4-5 foot sets march into A-frame peaks, grabbing your attention quickly. You mind surf each wave until it fizzles, dissipating into a dream.
Uncrowded, winds are offshore, and the countless drawings of flawless waves you’ve doodled so often in your notebook is coming to life before your eyes. You snap back to reality when you see a boardless body flowing effortlessly amongst the funneling waves: Point Panic.
The wave is a dream for surfers, but to a body surfer, it serves as one of the world’s finest playgrounds. For 61-year-old waterman and bodysurfing legend Mark Cunningham, with his quiet and humble apprentice, Kaneali`i Wilcox, age 24, Point Panic is the proving grounds for Hawai`i’s bodysurfers and the go-to spot for summer Town swells.
“Back in the day at Point Panic, you could pull your truck up to the water’s edge and it would be breaking right there in front of you,” said Cunningham. “It’s a fun, machine like quality wave that peels into the channel and has the trades grooming it.” “It’s a sanctuary of sorts,” said Cunningham. “The waves are so fun, and it’s nice to not be out there dodging boogie boards, SUPs, quads, fishes, and don’t forget Costco boards. In late 70s, early 80s the City Council the state authorities legally made it only for bodysurfing, with no board surfing allowed.” “There’s freedom of not being attached to a piece of equipment and being totally immersed in mother ocean,” said Cunningham. “It humbles you. It is not as easy as other board riding sports, because you’re not going to go as far or fast, or get tubed or do radical cutbacks. It’s nice to go back to basics and keep it simple.” “Kaneali’i Wilcox is a great kid, he graduated from Kamehameha schools and is doing crazy belly rolls and forward somersaults, things I’ve never seen before,” said Cunningham. “His body surfing speaks for him. He has a big future ahead.” “The guys at Point Panic fought hard to keep it what it is. It’s a piece of bodysurfing history, a one of kind,” said Wilcox. “It barrels slow and is the perfect speed for bodyboarding. It’s still the same hardcore guys that barbeque there when it’s flat, and the same core group of guys when the waves are there. It’s great to always see the same guys.” “I’m beyond honored to have done this session with Mark,” said Wilcox. “Growing up my whole childhood, he was my idol. I’ve watched him and learned that you have to put your time in, it’s what has gotten him to where he’s at. The fact that I get to be a part of something like this and be passed the torch, it’s mind blowing. It’s a huge chapter that I wanted fulfilled in my life.”
We use cookies to optimize our website and our service.
Functional cookies
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
