By Mike Latronic – Former event winner Greg Long rode more than one Waimea monster to clinch his victory in 2009. One of those waves was an amazing 100 point ride. At that time he was just 26 years old, Greg is now 41 and is chasing a new wave.
Greg Long’s journey from chasing big waves to becoming a leading environmental advocate is one of transformation and purpose. While Long has won every prestigious big wave award—including the Eddie Aikau Invitational and the Big Wave World Tour—his commitment now lies in protecting the ocean. Partnering with organizations like the Surfrider Foundation, Long channels his passion for the environment into action.
The turning point for Long came when a proposed development threatened Trestles Beach, a surf break close to his heart. His activism began when he worked with Surfrider to protect the coastline, leading to his realization that “our ocean is constantly under threat from a myriad of issues” and that individual actions can make a real difference. He believes that “leading by example is a powerful way to enact positive change” and emphasizes the importance of protecting natural spaces for future generations .
Now, through his role as a Surfrider ambassador, Long is not just riding waves, but working on what he calls “waves of change.” He advocates for defending the planet’s ecosystems, urging others to ask themselves, “What do you stand for, and how do you stand up for it?” His message to fellow ocean lovers is clear: small, consistent actions can drive long-term environmental sustainability .
By using his platform, Long continues to inspire others to become environmental stewards, making the fight to protect the oceans as thrilling as conquering a big wave.
FSM: When did you develop your passion for big wave surfing?
Greg Long: Big wave surfing has been my passion since I was 12, inspired by Bruce Brown films showing early pioneers like Greg Noll and Pat Curren at Waimea Bay. My father, a lifeguard, taught me ocean wisdom, which gave me confidence in the water. Over time, I pushed myself to surf bigger waves because the greater the challenge, the greater the sense of accomplishment. Big wave surfing also brought adventure, respect, and camaraderie, which I found captivating. At 18, I signed my first professional sponsorship, enabling me to chase big waves year-round for nearly two decades.
FSM: What does Waimea Bay represent to you?
Greg Long: Waimea Bay is the birthplace of big wave surfing and holds a deep cultural history within the Waimea Valley. It’s one of the most beautiful, powerful places in the world.
FSM: How did you feel when you got invited to the Eddie Aikau event, and what was it like to win?
Greg Long: Being invited to the Eddie was a dream come true, a bucket list goal for any big wave surfer. Winning the competition is my greatest surfing achievement. The energy of the day, with massive and consistent waves, was overwhelming. I vividly remember my four waves, but the rest of the day is a blur, filled with nerves and excitement. The Eddie is unlike any other event in the world.
FSM: How did you get involved with the Surfrider Foundation?
Greg Long: I started working with Surfrider in the early 2000s on the “Save Trestles Campaign” to stop a toll road from being built in my hometown. Surfrider is incredible at implementing change, from grassroots campaigns to federal policy. For years, my focus was still on surfing, but after some near-death experiences and injuries, I reassessed my priorities. I wanted to give back, which led me to work with organizations like Surfrider and Parley for the Oceans.
FSM: How has your role shifted from being a professional athlete to an ambassador for environmental causes?
Greg Long: My role now is to use the platform I built in the surfing community to amplify the work of conservation organizations. Whether it’s fundraising, outreach, or policy lobbying, the work is rewarding, though I surf less now. The joy I get from chasing waves is still there, but now I’m chasing a wave of change.
FSM: You used to chase waves worldwide, but now you’re pursuing change. Can you describe this evolution?
Greg Long: I’ve always enjoyed challenging myself, and while big wave surfing was once my arena, I now find fulfillment in environmental work. The changes we need are simple—we must live in harmony with the natural world. This means embracing sustainable practices, reducing waste, and promoting biodiversity. It’s about recognizing our interconnectedness with the planet and acting accordingly.
FSM: What would you say to those feeling overwhelmed about making a difference?
Greg Long: No individual can change the world, but we can all change our own world. Start by making changes on a personal level, without comparing yourself to others. The feeling of sadness about environmental or social issues is a reflection of the love we have for those places or people. Tapping into that love can inspire us to push forward and contribute to a collective effort for change.