I recently went on a trip with my family to Indonesia. It was amazing. The trip was broken up into three parts – five days in Kuta, ten days on the island of Roti and a week staying at a house on the Bukit right above Bingin.
The first couple days we surfed the beach breaks around Kuta. Padma was right in front of our hotel and it was pretty fun and not too crowded. My dad rented a scooter and we cruised around the city looking for waves and seeing cool shops. It was super crazy because the traffic is really gnarly. We surfed a spot called Halfway with my friends Paumalu and Dhani. It was a super fun left and right peak.
On the third day we took a trip up to Bingin. It was one of the most perfect waves I have ever seen and I got some of the best barrels of my life.
During our session at Bingin I was lucky enough to meet some really nice local guys from the Bingin Boardriders club, Uncle Steamy and Tommy Barrel. They took me under their wing and helped me get a lot of waves. It was awesome!
It was tough to leave Bali, but we were off to a new adventure, which took us to the village of Nembrala on the island of Roti where we surfed this sick wave called T-Land. The wave is super long and perfect. I got the longest wave of my life. My Rip Curl GPS watch said I went 275 yards!! The whole time we were there it never got under 3ft. The wave is really rippable and you can do a bunch of turns and go super fast. It’s really cool because you go out to the wave with a boat. There’s nothing better than jumping off of a boat into perfect surf. The sunsets were like a painting.
We took some time off from surfing to visit the local school in Nembrala where we brought a bunch of school supplies for the kids. The locals were super happy and it felt good to help out the school. Giving is good!
For the last part of our trip we went back to Bali and stayed at a house right above my new favorite wave, Bingin. During that time the swell of the year came in, and it was huge. Uluwatu and Impossibles were 12ft+. It was amazing to see. We surfed some secret beach breaks that were really fun too. The remaining days were spent surfing the barrels at Bingin and it was amazing – perfect 3 to 5ft. with epic conditions.
My trip to Indonesia was amazing. We got great waves, got to explore really cool places and best of all met some amazing new friends. I can’t wait to go back!