Intro and photos by Keoki
The lines of 4-5 foot sets march into A-frame peaks, grabbing your attention quickly. You mind surf each wave until it fizzles, dissipating into a dream.
Uncrowded, winds are offshore, and the countless drawings of flawless waves you’ve doodled so often in your notebook is coming to life before your eyes. You snap back to reality when you see a boardless body flowing effortlessly amongst the funneling waves: Point Panic.
The wave is a dream for surfers, but to a body surfer, it serves as one of the world’s finest playgrounds. For 61-year-old waterman and bodysurfing legend Mark Cunningham, with his quiet and humble apprentice, Kaneali`i Wilcox, age 24, Point Panic is the proving grounds for Hawai`i’s bodysurfers and the go-to spot for summer Town swells.